MRS packrafts are constructed using proprietary Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) coated Nylon, engineered to exceed industry-average peel strength, tear resistance, and UV stability. Material formulations and denier (thickness) are specifically tailored to the intended use of each product series:

• Ultra Light Series: Prioritizes minimal trail weight and maximum foldability, utilizing softer, highly packable TPU-coated nylon (e.g., 70D to 210D).
• Whitewater & Pro Series: Engineered for maximum durability, impact resistance, and structural rigidity in rapids, utilizing thicker reinforced tubes (up to 420D) and heavy-duty double-coated floors (840D).
• Quality Standard: All MRS materials are anti-hydrolysis, sourced from vetted global suppliers, and subjected to rigorous testing to eliminate substandard fabrics.

Note: While MRS utilizes premium TPU fabrics, maximizing the lifespan of the raft requires proper post-trip maintenance, UV care, and skillful operation within the boat's physical limits.

Always read the water before rafting. Understand that weather may lead to acute water condition changes. Do not use your packraft at dangerous places or under extreme weather conditions.

Yes. Always wear a PFD (personal flotation device). Helmet and gloves are also recommended.

Traps, especially low-head dams, are extremely dangerous that even the most experienced paddlers may not be able to escape from. Serious injury or death may occur even when one wears PFD.

We ship all in-stock items the next business day after an order has been placed.

If it says "Ships in 2-3 weeks" on our website, it means this specific item is made-to-order, and it usually takes 2-3 weeks to ship.

1. Twist counter-clockwise to detach the one-way valve core from the main valve, then connect the inflation bag on to the main valve.

2. Stretch the inflation bag wide open and let air in, then close it and press air into the hull chamber. Repeat this a few times until the packraft is 90% inflated. After this, remove the inflation bag and quickly re-attach the valve core to the main valve.

3. Blow by mouth or use a pump to fully inflate the packraft via the main valve. Close the cap once finished.

When the packraft is moved from land to water, the cold water will cool the air inside the packraft chamber, which causes air pressure drop. In this case, you can refill it with your mouth. This is very common and it isn't a leak.

Similarly, any environmental temperature changes (from warm afternoon to cooler evening) will cause packraft air pressure change. Packraft pressure is very sensitive to temperature.

Double blade paddle: 86.5 - 90.5 in (220-230 cm)
Single blade paddle: 54 in (137 cm)

This is a general guideline about the right paddle length. Taller people usually go with longer paddles. You may choose the paddle length based on your own needs.

Please note that the paddle shall not touch any side of the hull.

A self-bailing packraft has a thick, inflatable floor and drain holes in the hull floor. When water splashes in from rapids or waves, it drains straight out through the bottom — keeping the boat from swamping so it stays buoyant and maneuverable in heavy whitewater.

The difference is water management. A self-bailer lets water in and drains it back out continuously through holes in the floor; it uses a thick inflatable floor to lift you above those holes, which adds a little weight but allows very fast entry, exit, and self-rescue. A regular packraft — open or spray-decked — is built to keep water out with a lighter single-layer floor; if an open one swamps, you flip and dump it by hand.

For whitewater, choose a self-bailer for technical, shallow rivers with frequent scouting and portaging, where the open top lets you hop in and out without a restrictive skirt. Choose a spray deck for high-volume, cold rivers where staying dry matters most — it seals in body heat and sheds water, though it takes practice to exit quickly if you flip.

Yes. Because a self-bailer drains through open holes, there is always a little water on the floor and your lower body will get wet. In cold conditions, wear thermal protection such as a drysuit or wetsuit.

Slightly. Two things slow a self-bailer on flat water: the drain holes and the inflatable-floor shape add hydrodynamic drag, and the small amount of water that always sits on the floor adds weight the boat has to carry. On lakes or slow rivers, a regular closed-floor packraft tracks and glides a bit faster.

For a long flat stretch where self-bailing isn't needed, you can temporarily turn a self-bailer into a sealed-floor boat by taping the drain holes shut from the underside of the hull. This keeps water out and removes the drag-and-weight penalty for faster cruising; peel the tape off to restore self-bailing before the next whitewater section.

Most repairs can be done DIY easily. Here are a few repair methods that work for inflatable packrafts.

Temporarily repair LifePatch: For a quick fix.

GEAR AID Aquaseal + UV Field Repair Adhesive: It dries instantly when exposed to sunlight.

GEAR AID Aquaseal FD + patch: It needs hours to cure.

Clifton Urethane Adhesive LA 4123: Works well if you need to stick a patch on. Takes longest time to cure.